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Chanderi Saree and Cotton Silk Dress Material

Chanderi Saree

Background

Situated on the boundary of two cultural regions of Madhya Pradesh, Malwa and Bundelkhand, Chanderi, placed in the Vindhyachal ranges is home to a wide range of traditions. Specializing in producing fine textured Chanderi sarees of silk and cotton embellished with zari work intricately woven by hand interspersed with the delicacy of the extra weft motifs has for times immemorial satisfied the refined tastes of the royalty. Chanderi silk cotton sarees display various beautifully striking motifs that include ‘Dandidar, ‘Chatai’, ‘jangla’ etc.

Material used

The un-degummed mulberry silk yarn of 16/18 to 20/22 Denier count is used in warp. Whereas 100s-120s or 2/100s to 2/120s cotton yarn is used in the weft. Because of un-degummed silk yarn, the fabric is transparent. Gold and silver Zari are used for extra warp designs in border and extra weft designs in pallow and body.

Technique applied

Weaving is done on pit as well as frame loom filted with jala designing technique. Jala are lifted manually either by helper or weaver himself for weaving extra weft designs in the body and the pallow of the saree. Sometime jacquards are also used for lifting jala. For extra warp figuring in border, lattice dobby is used. The pegs/screws are inserted on lattice as per design and theses pegs/screws lift selected levers as a result extra warp threads are lifted. The lattice dobby is placed on the top of loom and connected to heald shaft which gives motion to dobby while operated by pedals/treadles.

How to distinguish genuine Chanderi Saree:

  • Warp thread is un-degummed mulberry silk whereas weft thread is cotton, which is not commonly used in any textile products.
  • Due to un-degummed silk warp, the fabric texture is somehow not very soft.
  • The fabric is not compactly woven. It is transparent and light weight, very suitable for summer wear.

Chanderi Cotton Silk Dress Material

Back ground

Situated on the boundary of two cultural regions of Madhya Pradesh, Malwa and Bundelkhand, Chanderi, placed in the Vindhyachal home to a wide range of traditions. Specializing in producing fine textured Chandericotton silk dress material are generally made of and cotton and sometimes embellished with zari.

Material used

The un-degummed mulberry silk yarn of 16/18 to 20/22 Denier count is used in warp. Whereas 100s-120s or 2/100s to 2/120s cotton yarn is used in the weft. Because of un-degummed silk yarn, the fabric is transparent. Gold and silver Zari are used for extra warp designs in border and extra weft designs in pallu and body.

Technique applied

Weaving is done on pit as well as frame loom technique. Generally the plain fabric is woven for dress material. Sometimes for ornamentation purpose extra weft designing is done by Jala technique of weaving.

How to distinguish genuine Chanderi

  • Warp thread is un-degummed mulberry silk whereas weft thread is cotton, which is not commonly used in any textile products.
  • Due to un-degummed silk warp, the fabric texture is very soft.
  • The fabric is not compactly woven. It is transparent and light weight, very suitable for summer wear.

Source : Indian Handloom Brand



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