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Gujarat Single Ikat Saree

Background

Gujarat is well-known for its single and Double Ikat sarees. Apart from the celebrated Patan Patolas, there is a different category of similar woven products termed as Gujarat Single & Double Ikat Sarees of Surendranagar & Rajkot districts.

The word Patola is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘Patta’ referring to silk cloth.

The practice in Rajkot started around 1950’s when one of the weavers working with Salvis moved from Patan to Rajkot to run a patola weaving training centre ‘Rastriya Shala’ sponsored by Khadi and Village Industries Commission.

At present, weavers in Surendrangar & Rajkot districts are producing silk sarees in simpler designs in Single and Double Ikat technique. These sarees have become very popular due to its low cost compared to Patan Patolas. This has brought in positive changes in the lives of the many handloom weaver families who otherwise were not finding enough work.

Material used

Pure Mulberry silk yarns and tested zari are used in warp & weft.

Technique used

The weft yarn in tie-dye technique of single ikat is patterned in different traditional motifs before weaving. Threads are tied and then dyed several times as per design and colour. The weaving is carried out in wooden Frame looms, Pit looms (Khaddashaal) and modified Pit looms (Ghodashaal). The fly shuttle is used for the depiction of stylized elephants, parrots, motifs of flowers, jewels and abstract geometrical patterns in all over, borders etc. in bright colours.

How to distinguish genuine Gujarat Single Ikat Saree

  • It is perfectly reversible cloth with same appearance of the design on both sides.
  • Intensity of the colours in the design also appears same on both sides of the fabric, whereas if the fabric is printed, then colours in the back side of the fabric will be lighter.
  • Contours of the designs are always hazy.
  • The texture looks like ‘Mat’ weave due to coarse (plied) silk yarns in warp and weft. 

Source : India Handloom Brand



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