Khandua Saree

Background

Nuapatna, a small village in Tigiria block of Cuttack district, about 70 km away from Bhubaneswar (State Capital of Odisha) has a rich and glorious heritage in form of KHANDUA Saree and Fabrics. Historically the Nuapatna owes its origin and importance to Lord Jagannath Temple. A section of artisans in village called bunakar (weaving community in Odisha) were allotted the work of temple as Sevakas (servants of the God) for weaving decorative cloths for Lord Jagannath (Lord of Universe), Devi Subhadra and Lord Balabhadra (Brother & Sister of Lord). Subsequently the decorative clothes were known all over as Khandua saree (KhanduaPata in Odisha).

Material used

The silk and cotton yarn are main raw materials. However, to make the product more decorative and attractive, the artisans are also using Zari. The different raw materials used in the process of production are cotton grey 2/120’s, Cotton Grey. 2/100’s Cotton grey 2/80’s, Bangalore silk yarn 18-20 Den 2 ply, Malda silk yarn 40-50 Den 3 Ply.

Technique applied

For weaving these sarees, 70% weavers are using fly shuttle frame looms and remaining 30% of weavers use pit looms. Weft yarns in bunches are tied in different places as per design and then dyed. Tying, untying and dyeing processes continue till all the colors are put on the yarn. This yarn is wound on to pirns and used in weft during weaving.

How to distinguish genuine Khandua Saree

• Khandua sarees are distinguished and characterized by its design with fine lay out and harmony of colour schemes, which gives out rainbow brilliancy.
• Motifs like star temple conch, rudrakhya, fish, chakra, lotus, swan, peacock, parrot, deer, elephant, horse, lion, dance of devadasi, Gitagovinda on fabric, different types of scenery are generally woven.
• Border portion is warp tie and dyed where as Anchol (Pallu) is weft tie and dyed.
• Reflection on two-tone colour or shot effect due to use of separate colour in warp and weft yarn in noticed.

Source : India Handloom Brand